TDI 4Runner Video Part 12 - AutoMeter Fuel Gauge Universal Sender

I used an AutoMeter Phantom 2 1/16th fuel gauge. As I expected, it was not compatible with the factory fuel level sender. I cut a new hole in the tank at a better location and installed AutoMeter's universal fuel level sender. I was able to get a nice full float sweep from the bottom to the top of the tank. So far it works great.

TDI 4Runner Gauges

On past project vehicles, I have always wanted all aftermarket gauges, but never did due to cost. Early on I decided it was going to happen on this 4Runner. There's 8 gauges - oil pressure, pyrometer, boost, volts, RPM, speed, coolant temp, and fuel level. All are AutoMeter except for the Speedhut GPS 0-100 speedometer. I decided to go with Speedhut because they offered what I wanted at a much more affordable price than Autometer. It doesn't match the other gauges perfectly, but it's close enough for me. I'm happy with it. I also added transistor-controlled LEDs for the glow plug and MIL lights, and 2 LEDs for turn signal indicators.

I knew it would be some work to install all these gauges, but I really under estimated it. No idea how many hours I have in the whole setup, but there was a lot of time consumed in making it all look nice, wiring up the lights, powers, grounds, and sensor wires. It was worth it, though; the end result is exactly what I wanted.

Thanks to Alchemist from the TDIClub forums for schematic and Jimbote for bringing it to my attention that I'd need to build this circuit.

Yes, there's heat shrink tubing on each individual wire to keep them from touching each other. The large piece of heat shrink tubing on the outside is to keep the unit stationary and add structural strength.

Seat Bracket Fabrication for Summit Racing Sport Seats

The stock seats in this 4Runner were in rough shape - some stains, some missing chunks of foam in the side bolsters, and they had permastank! Rather than cover it all up with some seat covers, I opted to replace them with Summit Racing's sport seats (SUM-G1159-2). I've looked at those for years and like them, but never had a need for aftermarket seats until now. These seats look great, are comfortable, come with sliders, and appear to be a good value. 

I made my own seat brackets out of flat steel bar stock. The rounded risers are roll cage tubing cut in half. Looks a heck of a lot nicer than box tube. I used a torch to heat and bend the curved front part to match the floor board. The 4Runner floor is not level, so it took quite a bit of measuring to get the seats level and in the correct left/right orientation. Overall I have 7 or 8 hours in these brackets, but the end result are level seats exactly where I want them that are in the correct left/right location and look great. 

I was afraid the side bolsters would be a bit too much for getting in and out, but initially they don't feel too bad. We'll see how it works out. 

TDI 4Runner Video Part 11 - Cooling System

Intercooler Charge Pipe Fabrication

It's pretty tight between the intercooler and fuel filter, but it all fits with enough room for some engine movement.

I did not leave the intercooler outlet transition like that. I bought more pipe and turned it into a nice smooth bend.

The grill fits nicely after some minor trimming :) I am planning on painting that section of pipe black so it will blend in a little bit better.

Video Part 10 - Intake & Intercooler

Quick Update - Lots Going On

Quick update here - not too much work is happening on the Toyota right now. My business is in full swing due to the time of the year. I own Ride-A-Bike Bicycle Shop in Lincolnton, NC. We are covered up with sales and repairs here as the weather changes! If you're in the area or passing through, stop in and say hello. Hopefully soon I can get back to work on the TDI 4Runner project. I can't wait to get it on the road!

Next step on the TDI 4Runner will be fabricating the radiator mounts and then working on all the coolant hoses.

VIdeo Part 9 - It Runs!

Video Part 8 - Exhaust System

Exhaust System Progress

Tonight I made more progress on the exhaust system.

The high temp header paint was dry on the downpipe, so it was time to install the header wrap. I forgot how nasty that stuff is to work with! Reminds me of insulation and fiberglass dust. Glad that's over. Downpipe is installed and finished. I'll just have to add a gasket when it's all done.

Once the downpipe was in, I created a few bends, added some clamps, installed a flex pipe, made 2 hangers, and got the Moroso Spiral Flow muffler in place. Really nice to see some progress. All that's left for the next time I work is to create the exhaust pipe that goes over the axle and out the side. 

Modified Stock Intake + Other Updates

Tonight's project was to modify the factory ALH TDI intake. I was a bit worried about welding cast aluminum, but this was cake! It seems that the Germans use good alloys in their castings. Always satisfying when a plan in your head comes together just as planned. Now I just need to get some mandrel bent aluminum pipe to put a curve on the end to point towards the intercooler outlet. 

I welded that with a Lincoln Precision TIG 185 machine at 155 amps. Air cooled torch, gas lens, 21-23 cfm of pure argon gas, 3/32 pure tungsten (green band), and 3/32 aluminum filler rod. More amps would be nice, but I am working off a household dryer circuit, so I'm really pushing the limits of my equipment with aluminum.

In other quick updates, I have started the exhaust system and have the downpipe finished. Now i just need to work on hanging the muffler, making the rest of the bends, going over the axle, etc. All it takes is time!

The radiator came in a couple weeks ago. I modified it to relocate the thermostat outlet hose (radiator inlet) because a rubber radiator hose would rub the steering box. Not much room down there to work with. More on the cooling system soon. Next on that project is to fabricate the mounts for the radiator and then I can start finding/making hoses.

 

Video Part 7 - Fuel System

Early ALH TDI 7 Pin Glow Plug Relay & Pinout

I only had the engine harness from my donor car, so it was necessary to wire in the glow plug relay without the OEM socket. Took a while to figure out exactly the function of some of the wires. The wiring diagram was not very clear as to what wire went to the labeled terminals on the relay. I am going to summarize my setup below for my own future reference.

Relay pin 30

• This is the largest terminal on the relay, and is wider than your normal sized spade connector. This is a fused 50a circuit from battery positive. I finally found the wide spade connectors at Northern Tool.

Relay pin G1/2

• Switched power wire to glow plugs 1 & 2. Self explanatory.

Relay pin G1/2 

• Switched power wire to glow plugs 3 & 4. Self explanatory.

Relay pin 31

• Control side ground. I attached this wire to ground via eyelet on the same bolt that I grounded the fuel pump.

Relay pin 86

• Control side positive. This is powered by the ECM relay (yellow wire in my case).

Relay pin ST

• ECM to relay. ECM uses this wire to activate the relay when specified conditions are met where the glow plugs are to be on. 5v signal. White/purple wire. ECM pin T80/42.

Relay pin D1

• 5v signal back to ECM when ST pin is powered. This circuit provides feedback to the ECM that includes fault checking. Green wire. ECM pin T80/37.

With this configuration, the glow plugs worked perfectly the first time I tried it. With the ECT sensor unplugged, my ammeter read 49 amps on relay pin 30 with the key on. After the engine starts, the amp draw went down to 24 to 25 amps. Only glow plug fault remaining is for an open circuit to the GP light, which I have not yet wired.

This wiring information is for the Bosch OEM relay, part #038 911 253. Use the above information at your own risk. The data I posted above is correct for my application, may not be accurate for your application. Double check & triple check your wiring diagrams. Figure out & understand exactly what each wire does. Do your own research. Learn how things work. Write notes so you don't forget. If you screw this up and damage something, it is entirely your fault!

Video Part 6 - Hose & Fittings Fabrication & Power Steering

Video Part 5 - Exhaust Manifold Fabrication

Engine runs!

It runs!! The TDI 4Runner fired right up tonight with minimal cranking! clack clack clack clack clack clack clack clack clack clack!!!!  After the injection pump was fully powered & a few other sensors were installed, the engine came to life in less than a second of cranking.. no sputtering about it! Pretty sweet for a diesel. Not even loud at all straight out of the turbo with no exhaust. Still a LOT of work left to do before it's street ready, but at least now I know the engine is good. Been over a year since I bought the engine. Nice to see some big progress. Combusted diesel sure smells good :-D
More videos to come soon... lots of footage, just have to make time to edit it. The videos aren't made to be entertaining - it is mostly for documentation purposes and for those wanting to build something similar.

Video Part 4 - Clutch & Other Comments

Video Part 3 - Building the Engine Mount

Hose fabrication

I've been pretty busy and haven't posted much recently, but I have been working steadily on the 4Runner project. I'm now down to the smaller details - power steering lines, oil lines, fuel system, etc.

I removed the fuel tank last week and found it was fully of rust. Way more than I would ever spend time cleaning. I bought a new tank for a great price from Rock Auto. While waiting on the tank to arrive, I have been making the power steering pressure lines, turbo oil return line, and started the fuel system.

For fuel, I am using a Holley Blue electric external pump with an external regulator. I also went to a 2 micron external fuel filter instead of using the factory VW filter. All lines are 3/8" with the last 1.5 feet to the injection pump being 5/16".

I have also started editing and posting videos from the build.. the first 2 parts have been uploaded to Youtube - check my other blog posts for the link. More videos to come as time allows.

Power steering pressure lines.

Need custom power steering lines? No problem, just TIG a -6 AN fitting to the hard lines and fabricate as needed.

Routed the -6 AN power steering pressure lines over the engine mount to be sure there is plenty of room for the radiator and intercooler.

Aftermarket 2 micron filter/water separator setup is on the right. This is easier to install and work with than the factory filter. Also easy to find replacement filters.

Turbo oil return is -8 AN. I will probably change the fittings to remove the level spot in the line.

Pyrometer (EGT) and turbo oil feed line are installed.

I created a bracket for the Holley Blue pump and regulator from u-bolts and bar stock. This bolts to the frame rail on the passenger side.

 

Video Part 2 - Transmission mount

Video Part 1 - Toyota Engine Removal